Bula Bula [Hello] Fiji

Suva, Viti Levu, Fiji Islands

Viti Levu, the largest island in the Fijian archipelago, has an abundance of resources, a rich history and vibrant culture. Not surprisingly, the island serves as a hub for trade and communications in the Southwestern Pacific. Suva, the capital of Fiji since 1883, is one of the largest cities in the South Pacific outside of Australia and New Zealand.

Markets are a great place to learn about local life,  and in Suva, the Municipal Market pulses with Polynesian, Chinese, Indian, and Fijian vendors selling fresh fish, meat, vegetables, fruit, nut oils, flowers, crafts, and anything else you did not know you needed.

After a short walk from the market, past the electronics stores, banks, and government buildings, you will find the Fiji Museum on the grounds of Thurston Gardens, where South Pacific flora can be seen. It also has some large kapok trees, which house communities of fruit bats hanging out during the day.

At the Fiji Museum you can learn the history not only of Fijians, but also other Polynesians, their migrations, and their culture. Outside the main building different areas teach you how to make paper, weave mats, make clay pots, or kava. Inside the main building are replicas of the giant double-hulled canoes that were used in the migrations. These canoes were big enough to hold cattle and live on for a short time and the carvings and craftsmanship reminded me of the Viking ships. Another part of the museum contains photographs and artifacts, telling the history and fate of the Fijians and the early missionaries who came to the islands.

Driving around the volcanic island offered snapshots into the mosaic of culture, history, and lifestyle that blend into an eclectic community today. Suva is a blend of Fijians, Indians, Chinese, Tongans, Samoans, Rotumans, Solomon Islanders, Micronesians, and Europeans and this diversity shows up in the various denominations of churches and temples throughout the island as well.  

On the drive I witnessed many contrasts. Compared to the congested big-city lifestyle of Suva, the outer villages had a simpler, quiet lifestyle with local produce stands, and singular houses near a river or waterfall. Not far from Suva, a lush rainforest, Colo-I-Suva, contains stunning flowers, birds, and even mongoose, which were brought in to eradicate snakes.

Standing up on a ridge overlooking Suva and the harbor, I marveled at the beauty of the mountains, the lush green landscape, and the collection of open-air homes with such a peaceful view of the ocean. Laundry fluttered on the lines, chickens, dogs, and goats roamed the sandy path, and the smell of cooking from the earth ovens wafted through the air. I ate the juiciest, sweetest papaya, freshly picked, and felt so much gratitude. My deepest wish is for all people to have the experience of peace I felt at that moment.

Moving Towards Peace: Dravuni Island, Fiji

You are not a drop in the ocean, you are the entire ocean in a drop.

                                                                                                                        --Rumi

As I stand on a bluff on the highest hill in Dravuni Fiji, my eyes become saturated with shades of blue: The horizon fills with layers of lapis and tanzanite with strips of turquoise, all encircled by the large reef betrayed by crashing white waves.  No photograph or painting could fully capture this moment as the wind caresses my hair and the sun kisses my skin.

Earlier that morning I watched the sun rise over the misty ink-colored shadows of the uninhabited islands nearby. Papaya- and mango-colored fingers of light welcomed the day and I thought about the Chinese proverb:
”When the sun rises it rises for everyone.”  Everyone on the planet bears witness to a new day, each one as unique as its witness.

Dravuni, a volcanic island in the Kadavu Island group of Fiji, is less than two miles in length with a population of about 200 people.  This tropical paradise, complete with shady coconut palms and pristine white beaches, could be the very beach I fantasized about visiting while viewing my computer’s screen saver in a windowless office.

By ‘modern’ standards the inhabitants on Dravuni have few possessions or luxuries. Yet, they have fresh rainwater, tropical breezes, and regular sunshine. The sea and the island provide their food and they have a strong community and family. They have a lifestyle at a pace many work at a frenzy in order to retire to. How much do we really need for a life filled with peace, contentment and love?

Tahiti, French Polynesia: Pape'ete & Mo'ore'a

Pape’ete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

**French Polynesia encompasses 5 groups of islands: The Society Islands archipelago; the Tuamotu Archipelago [see Blog about Rangiroa]; the Gambier Islands; the Marquesas Islands [see Blog about Nuku Hiva]; and the Austral Islands.

 

Tahiti, located within the Society Islands archipelago, is the largest and most populated of the islands. Tahiti’s mountain peaks reach upwards to 7300 feet and house lush valleys, rainforests, waterfalls, and abundant flowers and fruit.

The bustling port capital, Pape’ete, resembles a large metropolitan city rather than the romantic swaying palm trees and grass huts I was expecting. 

 In contrast to the swaying, smooth, gentle wave-like hula moves of Hawaii, the Tahitian dance and music pulses quickly with a fiery rhythm like a volcano. It is electric and tribal, and I saw this reflected in much of the graffiti scattered throughout the city.

The hustling energy of the city shows up in the Central Market where locals sell traditional Tahitian crafts, flowers, fruits, fish, and everything in between. And given the French influence, the city does not lack outdoor cafes, coffee, and fresh baguettes. Although it was not the romanticized island landscape I have envisioned, this big city has its own personality and charm.

 In addition to French culture, the Polynesians have woven Indian and Chinese influences into their cultural tapestry. Glimpses of the Polynesian roots can be seen in the common areas, though. For example, a botanical garden and culture center; the vaka [canoe] recreational area; a tattoo parlor specializing in local artistry. And, the graffiti.

 

Mo’ore’a, Tahiti

  

When I close my eyes to picture the most idyllic place to live, my memories from here would fill my heart and mind. Mo’ore’a is Pape’ete’s beautiful sister. In contrast to the frenetic tempo of Pape’ete, Mo’ore’a’s calm demeanor reflects in her lush green mountains rising majestically over tranquil inlets harboring sailboats.

This heart-shaped island formed over a million years ago from a volcano. Originally, the island’s poetic name, Aimeo I Te Rara Varu depicted the eight majestic mountain ridges of her landscape. A high priest’s dream in later years led to the current name, which means “yellow lizard.” Natives of Pap’ete and Mo’ore’a each claim their island as inspiration for the mythical Bali Hai based on the Michener novel about the South Pacific. The jagged peaks and lush landscape complement the beautiful white sand beaches and electric blue water. 

You can circumnavigate the island via a 40-mile stretch of winding road, promising beauty and majesty at every turn.  From every viewpoint the mountains beckon you to hike them. When you do venture into the hills, you find some remarkable ancient landmarks, called marae, on which ancient stone rocks shaped like pyramids contain carvings that detail the occurrences of sacrifices. 

Marae

 Belvedere lookout, perched in the mountains between Cooks Bay and Opunohu Bay, offers breathtaking views of the ocean and the majestic peaks.

 

Early in the day I ventured along a local road observing chickens  and dogs wandering the streets and delivery boys bringing freshly baked baguettes [it is French Polynesia ,after all] to homes by bicycle. Although no official town exists on the island, areas along the road have a few stores selling local crafts, sarongs [pareos] and fresh fruit. Noni, papaya and mango trees, overloaded with fruit, are everywhere.

Bliss

Rangiroa, Tuamotu Islands

After visiting so many volcanic, lush islands, the flat landscape of the Rangiroa atoll seemed stark and desolate. This atoll, the second largest in the world, boasts some of the world’s best scuba diving. On the cloudy, humid day I visited Avatoru, one of only two main villages, the intermittent storms and wind made for some choppy surf.

I rented a bike to travel the single road that connects several small

islets for about 6 miles. Tucked among some palm tree groves are some pensiones, and a few places serving food for the tourists who come to dive or relax at the sea. Although Avatoru is not rustic—it has running water, cars, and electricity—it definitely represents “island life” on a very small scale.

At the far end of the island, after pedaling through the village “center” [it had a food shop and a bank], I came upon an old church overlooking a pass. An abalone altar and

waterfall added to the stillness of this refuge from the sudden burst of rain. The ride back, into the unforgiving wind, gave me some time to view the pristine beauty of this tropical paradise. The wind, the waves, and the salt air felt pure and cleansing.  When the sun appeared later in the day, I floated out in the lagoon to look at the beautiful fish hiding in the coral.

The end of this idyllic day included a walk to the beach on the other side of the island. Some entrepreneurial young villagers had set up a stand selling purples shells, and they practiced some French and English they had learned to drive a hard bargain. The beach nearby had huge chunks of coral and shells that would eventually be pummeled into sand by the fierce waves on that side of the island. The contrast of the fierce, roaring waves with the strong wind to the peaceful surf of the lagoon only a few minutes’ walk away was mind-boggling. Sometimes nature reflects life.