Tuesday, December 29, 2015

The Cook Islands: Niue & Rarotonga

Alofi, Niue

“To move, to breathe, to fly, to float,
To gain all while you give,
To roam the roads of lands remote,
To travel is to live.” 
                                          ~ Hans Christian Andersen



I’m floating in water so blue it makes lapis boring. The French language has a special word
for the blue color of the South Pacific Ocean and even that would not accurately describe the hypnotic deep blue water that lured me from the rocky coral shores of Opaahi Beach into its waves.

As I float on my back in a cove where the famed Captain Cook was ominously greeted by the natives with fiercely painted red lips. The sun glistens on the water as I stare up at the high cliffs, into which the elements appear to have carved eyes and a mouth, resembling a large totem face. Looking down into the clear water, corals of vibrant purples compete for my attention. Despite the brisk temperature of the water, I feel embraced by the gentle waves, like reuniting with a long-lost friend.

 This feeling and the picturesque scenery of rugged cliffs, caves, and tide pools follow me as I stop at several spots along the coast in Alofi, Niue in the Cook Islands. Niue has endless adventures for snorkelers, kayakers, and divers, as well as hiking and biking trails. From the main road around the island you see signs for a beach trek that will take you down to a little nook. The paths even have a fresh water shower to rinse off after taking a dip. Although equipped with all the modern amenities, it embodies the relaxed energy you would expect of an island chain located halfway between New Zealand and Hawaii.


 And if you are lucky, you might even spot a crazy uga—a coconut crab hanging out with its mid-day snack.







Rarotonga


The first Polynesian explorers to view the volcanic island of Rarotonga came by powerful double-hulled canoes [vakas] and navigated by the stars.

This emerald island must have enchanted those early inhabitants as much as it does the visitors today.




The island provides an abundance of food for those who live here. Besides the bounty of the sea, the rich volcanic soil supports the terraces planted with bananas, coconuts, paw paw, noni, and pineapples as well as the swampy flats filled with taro.  As you circumnavigate the island, every little inlet has the postcard vista of blue water against the palm-studded beaches, and an anchored boat lazily bobbing against its tether. The backdrop of this scenery contains lush-green cragged pinnacles of the mountains at the center of the island.

Visiting the day market, my senses are treated to the beautiful
colors of tropical fruits, flowers, and fabrics. The women, adorned with frangipani head-bands, greet everyone with the welcoming, “Kia Orana.” The papaya has such a rich, fragrant taste as it melts in my mouth and blends perfectly with the fresh young coconut milk another vendor offers me.

I spent half the day with a local “shaman” at his ‘eco ranch’ as he touted the healing properties of the local herbs and fruits. Adorned with the sacred ti leaves, he offered us some fermented noni and freshly ground kava kava to drink.  As I walked
the property, the breeze gently rustled through the papaya and hibiscus as if orchestrating a little dance, harmonizing with the ocean waves. This wisdom of nature from the islands—the flow and rhythm—became a theme throughout my South Pacific adventure.


Tabuaeran: In the Middle of the [Pacific] Ocean...

After days of endless horizons on the tropical Pacific Ocean, the approach to Tabuaeran, an atoll in the Republic of Kiribati, reminded me of Gilligan’s Island. To call it “remote” would understate its location, roughly situated at the intersection of a Santiago-Shanghai and San Francisco-Sydney trade route.



Artifacts suggest that the earliest discoverers were likely Tongan or Polynesians heading from the Cook Islands to Hawaii.  Later, an American captain Fanning became the first “official” discoverer, and this little strip of paradise then wore several identities and strategic influence through the intervening years until it gained its independence in 1979 and joined the Republic of Kiribati.




Tabuaeran—“heavenly footprint”—seems aptly named as the large rolling swells of surf guide our tender into this expansive blue lagoon against the backdrop of palm-dotted beaches.  Even an accomplished painter would be challenged to name all the hues of blue dancing in the water.




The village has only several hundred residents and no running water or electricity. The villagers supplement the coconut and seaweed industry by selling hand-crafted shell-and- coconut-fiber jewelry and hand-crafted knives. Walking along sandy paths, I could hear the gentle rhythm of waves on the shore. Sprinkled throughout the tree-shaded path were hammocks and open-air grass huts with the picture-perfect view of fishing boats and the lagoon. The air, thick with humidity, was tempered by an occasional breeze under the shade of coconut palms, breadfruit, jack fruit, and papaya trees. Happy children played and sang Christmas carols in the single school house while the adults peddled their wares, waving hello and singing.



Sadly, several articles suggest that the rising ocean levels are infiltrating the fresh water supply of the islands in this chain, so the population will need to relocate, possibly to an island in Fiji chain.  I felt honored to share an afternoon in this idyllic place, reminded of the peace found in nature, community, and family.








Monday, September 2, 2013

Austin: The Sequel



Here, I continue the analogy of comparing cities in which I have lived to lovers.

Austin and I were first introduced about 12 years ago while I was still involved with San Diego. Austin in May is hot in a literal way, but I was easily charmed by our first date to see Willie Nelson play at Stubbs. By the winter solstice that same year we became a couple, a hot-and-cold dynamic for the next year and a half. Eventually, we drifted apart, as I moved on to uncharted waters.

Now, returning to Austin feels like any reunion with an ex-[insert appropriate title here], many years after a tumultuous break-up and some rekindling attempts over the intervening decade. I feel both excitement and caution.

Recognizing that anyone with a few relationships under the belt will reflexively enter the trap of comparison with past experiences, I also acknowledge this habit serves as a sword and shield, depending on the characteristic being referenced. Certainly, this applies to any new relationship, not just one entering a sequel phase. By comparing, one may be trying to avoid any semblance of a past unpleasant experience; or, a current lover's habits may raise warning flags for a behavior trip from which a few souvenirs have already been acquired, and you are trying to protect yourself this time around.

In the spirit of fun comparisons, Austin and NYC share some similarities. For instance,

NYC is known as Gotham, which plays an important role in Batman movies; Austin is known as Bat City because of the millions of Mexican free-tail bats residing under its bridges. Both cities have at least one river as a point of reference and recreation: NYC has the East River and the Hudson; Austin has Town Lake, a dammed up part of a river. Also, both cities are incredibly crowded with horrible traffic, and both cities attract musical talent, hipsters, tourists, and food trucks. One major difference, though, is that Austin's main businesses are high tech, the University, and politics. Another difference is the appearance that tattoo parlors outnumber Starbucks in Austin, whereas nail salons outnumber Starbucks in Manhattan. 

Compared to a a budding romance where everything feels new, exciting, and over-the-moon, going back to a former lover carries a bittersweet revelation: on one hand familiarity sits like a comfortable pair of jeans, while on the other hand the familiarity lacks the intoxicating novelty of discovering something new. Such a situation asks more of both parties because novelty has been supplanted with memories unearthed from a mental archaeological dig. Often, these excavation images of then-and-now comparisons will overtake a relationship before it can be viewed as it exists now. Then, the relationship begins with expectations of what should have stayed the same, and trepidation as to what may not have changed. Under the burden of such expectations, how does one ever invite surprise?

“If you want to recreate the world, look at it with fresh eyes.” 
                                                                     --Quote from the Vedic tradition.

The challenge of viewing a person, a place, or experience without the filter of memories
can be tempered by looking first at ourselves, with fresh eyes. If we do do not want our relationships to be "the same dances in the same old shoes" where we "keep on singing for the sake of the song" [Reciting from The Eagles, After the Thrill Is Gone], then an adventurous spirit and attitude may assist. Coming back to a known point of reference can show just how much we have grown, and just how compassionately we can accept the parts that haven't, without judgment as to how we think it should be. Certainly go to old haunts with a thrill of seeing how it has changed, but observe with what the Buddhists call a beginner's mind. Then, everything will be as unique as every sunrise and every sunset. 

Tuesday, June 18, 2013

NYC & Me


If cities in which I've lived were lovers, then I admit to a few these past twenty years. Of these, perhaps the most intense and enduring has been New York City. Our courtship has been a long one. We first met about seventeen years ago while I was in a relationship with San Diego, a calm and laid-back kind of lover. The contrasting energy of New York seemed to emanate from the pavement and was like electricity running through my body. Despite the attraction, NYCs fiery nature was also intimidating. Several years later we met again, when I was back together with San Diego after an intervening relationship with San Francisco. I almost committed then, but was lured by a perceived stability of several relationships with Texas cities. Then five years ago, I moved closer, to Long Island, which allowed NYC and me to see each other more frequently. Three years later the commitment was sealed when I moved to Brooklyn.

These years together we have danced together as only passionate lovers could, as I learned its history,
strengths, and weaknesses. Although there are few streets I have not walked, it continued to delight me with something new. When I have sought the beauty, it has been there: a beautiful sunset as the city lights come alive; a rose garden in the middle of downtown; the hues of autumn; and the purity of snow on the grayest concrete. When I have sought the ugliness, that, too, was apparent in the smells, the noise, the crowds, the poverty and despair. The moments of tested patience were tempered with the delight of something unexpected. Nothing that shines so bright can do so without its shadow. Regardless of my perceived mood, NYC never ceased to entertain me, on a subway or on the street, with buskers, brilliant dancers and musicians, and its people with outlandish clothing, behavior, and scams. The senses never rest and the wonder never ceases.

Yet something so dynamic and energetic has its secrets, and so often in relationship, one discovers herself in the reflection of the whole. How can something appearing so congenial and crowded feel so lonely and isolated? I have seen naked cowboys strumming guitars in Times Square and traveled every nation linguistically on a single subway ride. If I wanted a haircut at midnight or to shop for clothes after hours, if I wanted something delivered, or anything to satisfy my every need and appetite, it was readily available. When I was frustrated and lost, I saw a half-headless Cookie Monster taking a smoke break, and the absurdity of it all seemed to make sense at that point.




NYC is alive so I felt alive, by extension but not as myself. The overstimulation and assault on the
senses, so far from my self, started to take a toll. One learns and grows in a relationship, sensing, too, when the time has come to move on before the darkness settles in and hardens the heart. Perhaps I have been too spoiled, too satiated, and too stimulated, or perhaps the time is ripe for something new. Boredom rarely moves one to change as much as the heart's desire for peace. And so it goes, for now and not necessarily forever, with me and NYC. Our hearts and souls are full of love and memories.

Thank you all for reading these memories through the blog posts. Stay tuned for more adventures soon....



You'll Want What She's Having: Lower East Side Foodie Walk


In just a few hours in a short block of East Houston, you can experience the taste and tradition of New York.
In the famous scene from "When Harry Met Sally," Sally fakes the Big O in Katz's Delicatessen, prompting the nearby diner to declare that she'll have the same. On a rainy weekday lunch hour, you can experience a few pleasurable eateries on East Houston, starting at Katz's.  Katz's has been around since 1888, and although it serves your typical monochromatic deli food, seasoned veterans will urge you not to order anything but pastrami, corned beef, and pickles for your first visit. Obviously this is not the place for those with cholesterol concerns, but the ambiance alone is worth the trip. Amidst the crowded tables are signs designating where Sally and Harry sat hang alongside signs urging you to "Send a Salami to your boy in the Army."  Every person who enters the deli gets a ticket. 

Even if you don't order, if you don't have a ticket when you leave, you have to pay $50. Rules
are rules, and you can see why Larry David never lacked material for Seinfeld.  I recommend dining with a group and sharing a couple of sandwiches, pickles [worth the visit alone], and celery soda [helps with digestions, and you will need it].  












Although you will be stuffed at this point, to continue on your Foodie Walk, exit Katz's and go a few doors down to Russ & Daughters, which has been a New York institution since 1914. This small place becomes incredibly crowded on the weekends, so if you lack patience and tolerance, go during the week.  R&D will supply the ingredients for your NY-styled breakfast of bagels, schmear, and lox.  Here you can get smoked salmon, lox, and gravlax, along with smoked fish spread, pickled herring, rollmops, and other types of smoked or pickled fish. They also have different types of cream cheese to complete your breakfast smorgasbord.  

By now you are probably wondering why we did not get knish at Katz's to complete the Eastern European food theme on the tour. Katz's has fried knishes, which some people might prefer. However, to give your digestion a rest and tastebuds a treat, travel a few doors down from R&D to Yonah Shimmel Knishery.  Yonah Shimmel started in 1910 and has quite the eclectic array of baked knish, including sweet potato, mushroom and spinach, cherry and cheese, kasha, and BBQ for the summer. 



All three places have old photos depicting the history of the establishment and New York, which adds to the flavor and tradition.  

NYC Freedom: Roosevelt Island & The 9/11 Memorial


The East River from RI Tram
New York can feel incredibly overpopulated while commuting, walking around, or eating out, yet surprisingly, a few places exist where it feels like a serene urban oasis. For example, the cultural centers Goethe House and the Scandinavia House often have free exhibits, lectures, or movies with relatively few, if any, visitors, especially during the week. Some of the smaller museums or institutes also have interesting exhibits,  such as the Paley Center for Media, where I recently saw a Rolling Stones 50th anniversary tribute, or the International Center for Photography, which was practically empty on a recent Sunday.  

Underpopulated outdoor venues also exist.  In another blog I wrote about Governor's Island, open during the summer months with complimentary ferry service and spectacular views. Recently, I added another spectacular island to my list: Roosevelt Island.




Roosevelt Island 

Roosevelt Island, at about two miles long and 800 feet wide, lies in the East River and is
Roosevelt Island lighthouse
accessible by cable car or subway. This beautiful stretch of real estate has had a few aliases over the years. Native Americans called it Minnahononck, and as it changed hands between the Dutch and the English, it became Hog's Island, Manning's Island, Flynn's Island, Blackwell's Island, and Welfare Island before becoming Roosevelt Island in 1973.  Developers decided that a name like Welfare Island may not be attractive to residents, so a name change and a memorial to FDR were planned. The name change took place, but the untimely death of the architect for the memorial put the installation on hold until March 29, 2010, when construction commenced.


Taking the Tramway from 59th street is a visual treat on a clear day. Apparently the
Former smallpox hospital
Tramway had some unfortunate hiccups in reliability that required a complete upgrade. Now, though, you can scoot across the East River in a matter of minutes, exit and take off walking north or south. To the north I saw very few people, and most of them were patients of the hospital convalescing in the sun. Historically, this island has housed a penitentiary, workhouse, lunatic asylum, various almshouses, and hospitals, including one for victims of polio and other chronic diseases and one for small pox. A lighthouse stands on the northernmost point of the island. 

Heading south on the trail brings views of open space for picnics and dodgeball, along with a power plant and some other industrial buildings. Farther along, I passed a  fenced-in compound for stray cats that a local woman maintains. She feeds the cats and the ducks, which were numerous and fat. I then entered a gorgeous wild space with wildflowers and native grasses that just beckons for a picnic on a lazy afternoon. At the southernmost tip of the island the FDR Memorial, celebrating his famous Four Freedoms speech of 1941, glistens in the sun. Before reaching the monument, I pass the vine-covered shell of the small pox hospital. This contrasts with the monument's stark white Mount Airy Granite [park staff allow no drinks on the granite because humans can be clumsy and inconsiderate].
After ascending a few steps, a long lawn with 120 little-leaf lindens leads to the monument.  Behind the monument, you can look out over the water soaking in the warm breeze, sunshine, and views of Manhattan, Queens, and Brooklyn.  I pondered the irony that a place of beauty memorializing freedom had for so long been a place a confinement.


The 911 Memorial

Across the river on Manhattan island, another memorial to freedom exists. For personal reasons I waited until the end of my time in New York before visiting the 911 Memorial. Despite this being a popular tourist destination with vast crowds and long entry lines, the layout and the design of the park creates a feeling of serenity and anonymity. The magnificent waterfalls and trees direct the focus on honoring those whose names are engraved in bronze. The emotional effect of seeing all those names on so much space cannot be conveyed fully in print or photograph.