Nuku’alofa,
Tonga
Big Mama’s Beach Bar has a sandy floor, feral cats, and coconut shells inscribed with signatures of visitors past and present. From the wooden deck you can see yachts and sailboats anchored in the lagoon, along with the partially submerged shipwrecks memorializing a few hurricanes that visited the Kingdom of Tonga over the years. Big Mama’s sits on Pantai-motu—a little islet full of mangroves and tide pools that you can completely circumambulate in about 20 minutes. The only other structure on this motu is Big Mama’s house. To get here our small group kayaked some choppy surf over coral reefs, but Big Mama herself greets us with grilled fresh fish and even fresher tropical fruits and fresh coconut water.
The water feels
chilly from a recent rain shower. It is the end of winter and we have missed
whale-watching season, when tourists can actually swim the whales that migrate
through Tonga from June to October.
Nukuʻalofa, the
capital of the Kingdom of Tonga, lies on the north coast of the island of
Tongatapu, in the southernmost island group of Tonga. Nuku’alofa, “Abode of
Love” has the sleepiness of an island harbor-side town, with the buzz and
activity of a commercial center. The town center has hardware stores, the
Reload bar boasting to be the best [and probably only] bar in Tonga, a royal
palace, and a market. Compared to other South Pacific islands, the produce
lacks in quality, quantity, and reasonable prices. Still, this place has
bragging rights as the only Kingdom in Polynesia.
In addition to
the amazing fragrance of gardenia that seems to hover in the air, the endless
sound of drums seems to match the intense heat of the sun.
One unique aspect of Tongan culture involves the artistic mat weaving. These mats, treasured possessions
in Tongan households, are traditionally presented at births, weddings,
funerals and other special occasions. Some Tongans wear these mats like an
apron, known as the ‘ta’ovala’, as a respectful form of dress in the Kingdom. Apparently,
this custom originated in ancient times when men returning from long sea
voyages at sea would cut the mast sails of their canoes and cover their naked
bodies prior to appearing before their chief.
The “fabric” of
these mats is made from the bark of the mulberry tree, known locally as hiapo.
The bark must be beaten to soften and lengthen it into a fabric for weaving.
Some of the ta’ovala’ are also made from woven coconut fiber, shells, and
ribbon.
The genuine
happiness and friendliness of the Tongans is contagious. There is a generosity
of spirit and hospitality in their smiles and conversation that felt as warm as
the sun. Tonga certainly lived up to its reputation as the “Friendly Islands.”
Neiafu, Vava'u,
Tonga Islands
The island of
Vava’u in Tonga reminded me of some popular sailor havens in the Caribbean.
Tucked into a snug deep-water harbor, the Port of Refuge, Neiafu’s steep roads
lead up to scenic vista points adorned with colorful flowers and warm, gentle
breezes. As the ship entered the harbor it passed several uninhabited islands. (Only
21 of the 34 islands in the Vava’u group of Tongan islands are inhabited).
The little town
of Neiafu has bars, restaurants, a church [of course], and little b &bs
all within walking distance. As you head up toward Mount Talau, you are treated
to a crystal-clear view of the harbor. School children in their colorful
uniforms sneak cigarettes and hold hands as they sit by the water. In the
harbor you can see the anchored sailboats and the buoys anchoring the pearl
farms.
Neiafu has a
unique tranquility. You can sit by the water and sip some kava taking in the
white capped waves on the royal blue water. This is a water-lover’s paradise
infused with peaceful, zen-like atmosphere. What more could you need from a vacation spot?
